the spaces between

Bus rides. They can be long. They can be cold. They can be bumpy. They can be winding. The smell of feet mingled with air freshener. Your legs become stiff. Your neck aches from nodding off. And there’s the small problem of straining your bladder as you decide whether to hold your pee or brave […]

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guided 

Ten years ago, while walking around Berlin on a guided walking tour, a couple (also tourists) walking past shouted “sheep” at us. Presumably for some, taking part in such a tour was a kiss of death, a neon sign announcing you were a tourist (as if this was some kind of great evil) and not […]

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28 days later 

I have, in no particular order:  Trekked for 4.5 days and covered over 80km at Torres del Paine National Park (Chile)  Felt very, very small in a giant salt flat left behind by a lake that dried up 45,000 years ago (Bolivia) Had my mind blown by street art in Valparaiso (Chile) Learnt to not […]

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riot on an empty street

The mural clinched it. A row of giant colourful sushi, painted on the wall of the restaurant. The sushi turned out unmemorable but I remember the mural.  Valparaiso comes up quickly when you start searching for ideas on where to go in Chile. About 90 minutes by bus from Santiago, it’s an easy enough day […]

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the heart knows 

It’s been a day since we left the spectacular landscapes of Torres del Paine National Park, but in my mind, I’m still there.  Some places steal a little bit of your heart. I felt this way about Milford Sound in New Zealand, certain streets in Paris, Komodo in Indonesia, my mum’s hometown in Taiwan, a […]

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planning, or trying to

Does borrowing guidebooks from the library and extensive Googling count, when I haven’t booked a single thing? It’s a little unusual, planning a trip with no end in mind. On one hand, I want to be practical and economical, like book a return flight because it is cheaper that way. But from where will I […]

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