salt rocks 

“The Laguna Colorada was a vivid clay red, thanks to the algae in the water reacting to the sun, clashing prettily with the bright pink of the flamingos that live there — three species of flamingo reside in the altiplano; they are obviously much tougher birds than I gave them credit for. In the background, […]

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hostels: a wishlist

Full-length mirrors in the rooms Free filtered water if tap water isn’t drinkable, or perhaps an electric kettle to boil water (bottled water is so wasteful bad for the environment!) Showers in which the water drains quickly Consistent hot water that doesn’t go  Sockets by the bunks  Hooks for towels at the bunks  Wifi that […]

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refuge

I knew I was in a different kind of place when I had that burger. It was a top-notch cheeseburger, with a juicy-sweet patty, the right amount of cheese and veggies, and spectacularly perfect bun. Even in Singapore I might be hard pressed to find a burger this good at a moment’s notice. And yet […]

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#vanlife 

I read this article in the New Yorker a few days ago – I suppose to anyone who has ever thought critically about social media, none of it was a surprise.  Meanwhile, I’ve been enjoying #vanlife of a different order in La Paz – the vans, referred to as minibuses, that form an essential part […]

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the spaces between

Bus rides. They can be long. They can be cold. They can be bumpy. They can be winding. The smell of feet mingled with air freshener. Your legs become stiff. Your neck aches from nodding off. And there’s the small problem of straining your bladder as you decide whether to hold your pee or brave […]

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guided 

Ten years ago, while walking around Berlin on a guided walking tour, a couple (also tourists) walking past shouted “sheep” at us. Presumably for some, taking part in such a tour was a kiss of death, a neon sign announcing you were a tourist (as if this was some kind of great evil) and not […]

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28 days later 

I have, in no particular order:  Trekked for 4.5 days and covered over 80km at Torres del Paine National Park (Chile)  Felt very, very small in a giant salt flat left behind by a lake that dried up 45,000 years ago (Bolivia) Had my mind blown by street art in Valparaiso (Chile) Learnt to not […]

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