running away to mompós

Topknots on boys and girls. Talk of cocaine tours. Electronic music pulsing by the pool.  I sat in my hostel in Santa Marta and thought, fuck it, let’s go somewhere else.   I had come to Santa Marta after spending a few glorious days in Riohacha, Cabo de la Vela and Punta Gallinas. Sure, there […]

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high on peru

My stories on Peru ran in TODAY earlier this week, and I guess you could call it a farewell note of sorts. Mountains and snow feel very far away as I explore Colombia’s Caribbean north, and I expect I’ll be missing them before long… Read the story here And read about my (mostly culinary) adventures […]

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how to never leave cusco

I’m not much of a planner. I also tend to dawdle. The combination of these factors meant that I stayed in Cusco for nearly 2 weeks – which is the total length of the vacations of some people I met here.  I didn’t think I would spend much time in Cusco. I had booked a […]

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where has the time gone? 

Days turn into weeks. On this trip, I constantly astonish myself when I see the calendar – how is it the start of a new month already? When I was a child every hour of the day passed with absolute clarity and I felt every hour – afternoons were long and lazy; a month felt […]

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salt rocks 

“The Laguna Colorada was a vivid clay red, thanks to the algae in the water reacting to the sun, clashing prettily with the bright pink of the flamingos that live there — three species of flamingo reside in the altiplano; they are obviously much tougher birds than I gave them credit for. In the background, […]

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hostels: a wishlist

Full-length mirrors in the rooms Free filtered water if tap water isn’t drinkable, or perhaps an electric kettle to boil water (bottled water is so wasteful bad for the environment!) Showers in which the water drains quickly Consistent hot water that doesn’t go  Sockets by the bunks  Hooks for towels at the bunks  Wifi that […]

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