girl and going solo

“You’re so brave.” That’s a comment I got a lot from people whenever they found out I was travelling alone. It’s not true though – I’m not braver than most, and sometimes I’m downright chicken – for example, I still don’t like trekking alone because I’m convinced I’ll get lost and I’m not sure I’m […]

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la guajira steals your heart

The story I wrote on visiting Colombia’s La Guajira region ran on Thursday, two days after I landed back home. Reading it and looking through my photos afresh brought about the predictable twinges of longing. Cabo de la Vela and Punta Gallinas are full-on experiences, where the environment – hot, harshly dazzling – makes itself […]

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running away to mompós

Topknots on boys and girls. Talk of cocaine tours. Electronic music pulsing by the pool.  I sat in my hostel in Santa Marta and thought, fuck it, let’s go somewhere else.   I had come to Santa Marta after spending a few glorious days in Riohacha, Cabo de la Vela and Punta Gallinas. Sure, there […]

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high on peru

My stories on Peru ran in TODAY earlier this week, and I guess you could call it a farewell note of sorts. Mountains and snow feel very far away as I explore Colombia’s Caribbean north, and I expect I’ll be missing them before long… Read the story here And read about my (mostly culinary) adventures […]

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how to never leave cusco

I’m not much of a planner. I also tend to dawdle. The combination of these factors meant that I stayed in Cusco for nearly 2 weeks – which is the total length of the vacations of some people I met here.  I didn’t think I would spend much time in Cusco. I had booked a […]

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where has the time gone? 

Days turn into weeks. On this trip, I constantly astonish myself when I see the calendar – how is it the start of a new month already? When I was a child every hour of the day passed with absolute clarity and I felt every hour – afternoons were long and lazy; a month felt […]

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